January 31, 2006

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Why isn't there a pitchforkmedia for fashion?

Okay, pitchforkmedia has its problems, not just that it creates a kind of indie miasma (some reviews sound like a bickering arrogant child) but everyone needs to get paid. What I mean is a forum of well-read writers for well-read readers, in the lingua franca of design, unafraid to be scathing (sometimes insouciant), independent and blithe -- about fashion.

Everytime I read an i-D, Another, Vogue, or other big syndicate, I wretch from the amount of mutual masturbation, idol-worship, and blatant label plugging that passes through the pages. Come on, can't we be a little honest? Because XXXX designer gave your magazine shitloads of freebies, ad money or boys you have to laud his latest sterile, crap collection as a sign of his genius. Really. This doesn't stir up a thing.

Instead of books of advertising, I would like to see a media in fashion do the same kind of criticism we have in other forms of art. Or is fashion such a commodity that money precludes debate?

Maybe the right question is: would such a publication be financially sustainable?

88 comments:

andrea said...

to post "off-topic" again"-

really like the images you post on here, jean.
very high-res, very paper-worthy..

andrea said...

word word word.

word on pitchfork & word on "INDIE MIASMA".
word on "but everyone needs to get paid".

bull-SHIT (i don't address this towards you).
all of that. i don't remember distinctly when
i instinctually began to dis-like pitchfork. i
never made it a habit to read it, either.
all of a sudden i wish you could meet my
friend jorge now- for a fun-filled discussion
of fashion, forums, "criticism" (ugH!!!),
art-appreciation, what's-literary, etc...

for the same reason i began to HATE most forms
of print-media and "music criticism" (what!!!?)
during the past few years, i wrenched myself away
from even trying to follow cultural trends. i used
some birthday money to purchase (1) magazine
subscription, but i still feel very, very equivocal
about it. i can't read a "music review" without
wishing i could puke all over it.

which is why i stay away from online stuff.
don't want to get puke near the computer.
---

all that you raise here: all good points.
mutual masturbation, plugging, chugging.
i have recently begun to wonder whether KALX, after all,
is NOT immune to this. i still like some of its
programming, but... well, radio stations change.
of course.

anyway, these are exactly the same things i have
been contemplating. the contemplation was heaviest
during this past winter break.

"commodity?" "culture as commodity?" i would rather not
throw these terms around, because they are very stale.
but what i mean to say here is:
it takes guts to recognise when & where "commodification" happens, or when/where
it transplants itself.
it really hurts to see this happen, too.

i am specifically re-winding & re-membering the "beliefs" of certain friends. i wrote a long letter all about them when i was in l.a.

specifically: it hurts to understand which friends or
which people "commodify" what.. and for what?
it really hurts to understand how differently some
people regard "commodification". how different their
perspectives are from your own.

hurts!

typed enough again.

a said...

"would it be financially sustainable?"???

YESS!!

step #1 start small, think big; plan it, grow it.

i'm not in fashion, but i give you an unequivocal YES.

jean said...

by fashion-as-commodity, i mean that it's symbolic as a physical object (as opposed to music, which i'd argue is more 'experiential,' and in criticism, is always talked about this way).

and fashion is more commodity than, let's say, architecture, which can also be criticized as an object, because of the production type (quantity, lower cost), high turnover, and everyman accessibility. that's the nature of the industry financially.

fashion-as-commodity is the depth of the relationship between financial cycles and fashion, bringing in advertising, media, planned obsolecence, etc. my good friend said he was averse to the industry because, compared to architecture, it seems to require a lot more deception to do business. as a whole, i think this leans towards truth.

but it doesn't negate fashion as art.

(art that requires support and debate).

i think it has more inherent potential for expression as a visual language everyone can create. and i think we've yet to exploit the full potential of fashion as a medium of subversion ... (for example, deconstruction hasn't even really begun!)

jean said...

as for 'music journalism' -- when it's good, i love it. when it's mediocre or bad, i hate it! (as with most things in life ...)

the secret is finding those amazing writers. anyone who is a 'critic' has to do double duty: their knowledge of the subject and the art of writing (while as a member of the media, contributing to the repetoire of culture). add in good, nuanced 'taste,' and there's a rare gem if you ever find one.

anyway, writing about music can be amazing, and some of my favorite music journalists i could read tirelessly. it's overwelmingly delicious synesthesia -- savory, colorful sound.

andrea said...

"deconstruction hasn't even really begun"?! really??

what do you mean by this?

either i am reading you wrong; otherwise, i disagree with this statement.

on the distinction(s) between the "commodifications" of
fashion, music, or architecture: true, true, true. i usually
don't think of "commodity" in the same terms or words,
but no matter. i normally don't even attempt to
verbalise my reactions to this stuff.

"planned obsolescence"... this is a nice phrase that can
envelope very many meanings. when i think of how you
use this phrase, i specifically remember how you think
of Apple's products.

those Apple rat-bastards... anyway.. methinks
"planned obsolescence" circa the 21st century acquires
new significance. in the 21st century, "planned obsolescence" is something that pervades just about every product on the planet. let's say it pervades 99% of all products.

this includes agricultural products. it includes the technology used in print media. etcetera etcetera etcetera.

so, yes, music is regarded (by the media) less as a physical object and more as "experiential". no buts about this.

BUT..... the music industry BREEDS physical by-products.
Hence, Indie Miasma. I mean... could you provide an explanation for discrepancies between the "commodity of the song" and the "commodity of the music video"?

of course you can!

love your blog! :D

jean said...

1 deconstruction has barely begun. in other words, it's barely present in our physical culture.

2 i don't think planned obsolescence pervades 99% of all products. that's an extreme percentage. there are so many well-designed products that are manufactured to last as long as possible (certainly not to be tossed before their time comes) - though the consumer might choose its 'obsolescence' for other reasons.

3 i'm talking about fashion as commodity very simply: that it's too often treated as a disposable good traded for sums of money rather than a cultural contribution. certainly there's the disposable pop song made to be eaten and shat out in a few months, but this is not what i'm talking about.

i'm balking because there is a lack of discourse between creators, users, and 'authors' (media, historians, etc) that exists in other art forms (music). i feel there's a level of creative curiosity / depth present in music journalism that doesn't happen in fashion journalism. i suggest that it's like this because fashion journalism lacks independence - is much too complicit in the financial rewards of its subjects to offer real critique.

andrea said...

ok.. i'm finally beginning to see your point!

i've got at least one fashion book i want to show you soon..

alternatively, i wonder if you/we'd be able to browse the library of SF FIDM?

who knows... we might even dig something up in one of the berkeley/UC libraries. there are also plenty of "private" (museum-type) libraries open to the public in san fran!

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